The day started out great with sunshine and a lovely breakfast that even included eggs. Our English host says we Pilgrims need a good English breakfast of protein, but she also served us thick slices of soft bread with swirls of chocolate in it and of course coffee with hot milk. She also had a washer and dryer so we took advantage of that last night. Nice to start out in the morning with clean clothes and sun shining even thought the temperature was 48 degrees.
Well that only lasted about 45 mins. , when It began to rain and rained on and off all day. Walking though the French country side is like walking through the farmlands in western PA, none of it is flat. The rolling hills are getting steeper and the path is between fields of wheat, barley and now corn or in the woodlands. Sometimes there is a tree wind break between the fields and sometimes the path is sunken. With all this rain the mud is getting much worse and now starting to really slow down our pace. It just takes a lot of energy to not sink in over the boots and to not slide on your bum...it's sticky clay that clogs on to your boots and also is as slick as ice. Ahh!!! The challenges of of crazy Pilgrims. We came up to a Church in Sain-Christaud today and were looking for the next marker to tell us which way to go when a lady in a white apron came out of her house and told us not to take the GR653 though the forest that it was Too muddy and that we should go on the road she insisted so we did for about 4 K and it was a good choice. Of course after that we went back onto the Camino route..for delightful mud....
This is the land of ducks, and did you know ducks do not have throats so feeding them with a funnel does not cause them distress.
We arrived at the Church about 4:30 , pouring rain and called the gite per instructions so she then came and picked us up... Mind you, she speaks no English and we no French.... Then again we are the only guests...Elaine is 80, has been been taking care of Pilgrims for 35 years. She called her friend who is from England and invited her to dinner so we all could talk together...the friend had directed international schools for Shell Oil Co for years all over the world and had many stories to tell plus gave us a lot of info on local politics here in this part of France. The dinner was amazing...started with a Spanish Port wine then a broad bean soup, wild bore with prunes, tomato salad, and rice pudding with fresh strawberries...weather not looking good for next 8 days... Just taking one day at a time.. All is good so far.
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