Chocolates on my Pillow

Incense Urn Further in Swing

Incense Urn Starting Swing

Last Walking Day 34

I was up two times in the night to soak my feet in cold water. It is a very effective treatment for my toasted feet. So I was a little slow in getting packed up and down for breakfast and a little uncertain how this last day would go. At 8 o'clock we stepped out the front door of the Hotel and realized that it was raining and really windy. Stepped back inside and I put on shorts and we both slipped into our ponchos and off we went. It only took about 15 mins for my " Burnt toast feet" to feel almost great and I got to have my portable cold foot bath with me all day.

We only had about 9.5km to go so we were in very good cheer. Up one last big hill to Monte del Gozo or Mount Joy, where medieval pilgrims first spied the cathedral towers. Now that view is blocked but you can still see Santiago suburbs from there.

At 10:44 we spotted the Cathedral towers and Al says if we hurry we can make the 12:00 pilgrims mass. We arrived at 11:30 in great Pilgrim style, ponchos dripping wet and blowing in the wind. The realization that we really did it , we were really standing there in front of the Cathedral hugging each other in celebration of the long "Way" we completed together. Even though a bit overwhelmed we first had to find the Pilgrim office register , get our official Compostella , then find a place to lock up our backpacks and then get in line to enter the Cathedral. We just made it. Must have been 3,000 people in the Cathedral. Al would do a better job describing the Mass but even though it was long...standing in wet sandals, all in Spanish and only understanding a little bit of what the Priests were saying, it was still very moving. We looked around and saw several people we had met along the way. Just before the communion there is a greeting to those around you...peace be with you..not many dry eyes...hand shakes often replaced with hugs. The coolest part was the swinging of a giant incense burner. Originally this was used to fumigate the sweaty and possibly diseased pilgrims. It took six monks to swing it with a pulley system and ropes and the had it going so high it almost hit the ceiling. Absolutely amazing. Everyone was gasping and taking pictures, even the Priests were enjoying it. When they finished everyone applauded. A nice fun way to end an otherwise solemn service.

Too much to write. Stood in line in rain for an hour or more to tour the Cathedral. Then knew we better find a place to stay. By this time we were cold and getting wet inside our ponchos and hadn't had lunch yet. On the square behind the Cathedral is Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, which is the oldest hotel in the world in constant use for that purpose. It was built around 1486. Ferdinand and Isabella built it as a pilgrim hospital but now it is a 5 star Paradores where we are staying tonight enjoying the luxury. Nice to find a little box of chocolates on my pillow tonight. Thinking of taking a bus to Finisterre tomorrow.

The Camino de Santiago is officially completed. St. Jean to Santiago 798.6 Km or 496.2 miles in a total of 36 days which included 2 rest days.
"A purpose of pilgrimage is to allow time for old belief systems and outworn "truths" to fall away so that new and higher perspectives can arise." Quote by John Brierley who wrote the pilgrims guide that we used.

Walking Day 33

> What a pleasant surprise to wake to no rain! We were on the Camino at 0750 after breakfast and rescuing our poncho's from the Hostel's lockup. As we walked up and down rolling terrain on tree covered trails the sun started to break through warming the air and showing blue sky. There were a number of trees and tree limbs down along with windfall fruit. The figs were good but we could find no good apples.
>
> Since the Camino weather and TV continued to show rain, we decided to extend the walk to minimize our final walk into Santiago in the forecasted rain. The result was a 30 km walk leaving 9.5 km to go and bad news, as JL's feet are toast. ( Comment from JoLinda "Burnt Toast") Not sure if we will be able to leave the 3 star hotel we are currently in tomorrow morning or not.
>
> The dinner was the best "menu of the day" we have had. Dessert was ice cream with chocolate sauce in a dish! No little packaged cup.
>
> Al reporting.....

JL in the rain in Tevas in shorts and so-so poncho

Walking Day 32

We've been talking about being blessed with good weather so as you might expect, it didn't last. For days we have walked under threatening rain clouds. Last night it started "tipping" as our Welsh friends say. This morning it was still pouring and hasn't let up. We started walking later than usual not wanting to walk in the rain and in the dark...still not really light at 8 am. A lot of the walk was in the woods, great smelling Eucaliptus trees and some protection from the wind, up and down and up, up again. Now driving rain. By the way my Tevas and wool soaks today are perfect. They needed a wash job anyway.

We had decided to make this another short walking day and are we glad to be in. Al is already ordering vino tinto and spaghetti. You know two days ago early in the morning Al announced he was "done" with Camino and wants to be home, also related that he was having nightmares of having the bottoms of his feet caned and other various tortures. The next dayr he tells me there are imaginary stones in his shoes. I think we both will be glad to get to Santiago.

We are in Arzua which is the last big town before Santiago with around 37 Km to go. Too much for me to do in one day.

Walking Day 31

Today was another 20 km. The Camino marker says 51 km to go and at this point I am ready for it to say we are there. No breakfast this morning until we had logged 7 km. Surprising there was no rain although it was sure in the air. We are now in Melide, a modern town of about 7000 that has a 14 c church & a museo of the areas history. We found a nice hotel and are enjoying warmth & wee-fee. Again rain is predicted but we are hopeful it will fall during the night and leave a blue sky for tomorrow's walk.

Al reporting......

Blackberries for breakfast

New Albergue only 10 bunks, nice but no heat

New picnic tables for Catalina

Walking Day 30

Where on earth other than the Camino can you have 30 days with gracious, kind, helpful, positive people? We have not experienced one bad attitude or negative comment from anyone walking on the Camino or along the way. People in the country and the towns are always so helpful. If you are standing along the way people will point the direction you should go or walk with you till they are sure you are going the right way. No one passes you with out saying buen Camino or greets you in someway. It is pretty special.

Having said that I also want to say that things on the Camino have definitely changed a bit since O'Cebreiro and entering Galicia. Al mentioned that there are so many more pilgrims on the path and most with no packs but more than that they haven't received the proper pilgrim orientation. Half kidding but really all this difficult way you learn things like; "Pilgrims never complain, they Welcome" and that we are all in this path of life together so we better help each other. Another difference is that almost every Km there is a stone marker that counts off the distance to go to Santiago, it is really annoying and makes it really hard to stay focused on staying healthy, happy and appreciative of each day walking on the same path that people have walked for centuries. After all the Camino is like life appreciating every day, not about getting to the end, which is death.

Today we stopped early after only 20 Km so maybe my feet won't keep me awake tonight. We got to our little albergue about 1:30 and have been enjoying relaxing in the sun talking to pilgrims stopping for lunch and passing by onto the next town.

We ran into the family on bikes again today and talked to them. I had the ages wrong, the kids are 6, 3,ad 18 months. They also have either his sister or her sister with them so there are three bikes. They are on their way to South Africa to work for a couple years but are finding this so inspiring that they may peddle too Rome. ( not sure from where) when they are done. They rented the bikes in Leon but brought the tow stroller from Canada...no airline fee cause it rates as a stroller. We saw them again a little later and the were all pulled off to the side half way up a hill picking black berries as a snack before lunch.

It is a bit cold not walking so I better get in my bunk for a little nap before dinner. These stone buildings are really cold.

All is well on the Camino.

Backpack transport I don't think so

Backpack transfers

Repayment of significant debt

100 km to Santiago

Walking Day 29

Last night's meal was another pleasant experience with some old & new friends. We were surprised to find Dennis, an Irishman we had breakfast with on Walking Day 1 in St Jean, hobbling down the the stairs to greet us. His Camino is over, struck with tendonitis in his left ankle. He was cheerful enough but clearly disappointed vowing to return in late Dec to finish in this holy year.

Since it rained in the evening and the weather reports were for a clear day we decided to spend or 43rd anniversary walking, so we were a foot at 0800 after breakfast. JL's feet were less painful, but we choose to keep a slower pace. Today was an uppy for the first 13 km. At our first stop we found another fellow pilgrim Barbara (73 from Chicago) who we hadn't seen in 10 or so days. The walk was pleasant and soon JL was comfortable with her Tevas. Dairy cows were everywhere and JL couldn't stop taking pictures (and I thought she wanted off the farm). The farms are old but the equipment is new. Modern milking storage, new big tractors and houses that have been renovated. Clearly this area is wealthy. The soil has also changed. It is sandy/silty without stone, and appears rich.

We passed the 100 km marker and stopped at a bar/tienda at 95 k which was reported to have beers from a zillion countries. Here we again met Jed, a young man doing the Camino from Israel (who claims to be atheist) who repaid the euro we lent him at dinner. We have enjoyed his humor as he now calls me (a non-practicing Catholic) Rabbi.

There are now almost twice as many pilgrims on the Camino as Sarria is the last place you can join the Camino and receive the forgiveness of sins in Santiago. Dennis found this ironic as he had walked almost 700 km for nothing and those that would walk the last 100 km would receive full forgiveness.

Most of the new pilgrims are walking without backpacks or small daypacks. There is a huge business from here in that transports packs to the next overnight stop for about 4 euro.

We are now in a Pension (private room w/ bano for our 43rd annv.) in Portomarin, a village that was relocated higher on a hillside to allow the construction of a reservoir including the relocation stone by stone (each numbered) of the XII c church. We are 88 km from Santiago and plan a short day tomorrow with rain predicted at 85%.

Al reporting.......

Fortaleza de Sarria

View from room in Sarria

Walking Day 28

Well, you didn't want to be around our room at a little Hostel this morning. I had a mini melt down after not being able to put weight on my feet to go to the bathroom. My heels felt like a bolt of lightning was nailing them to the floor with each step. So with a lot of massaging and stretching with help from Al we finally arrived at breakfast around 8:00 and started our walk. Slowly we did the the 11.5 miles through one of the most beautiful mountain trails so far. Trees covering the path which often was below ground level...like a trench. One side would be a natural hill side and the other would be a stacked stone wall. Imagine a hobbit trail. Parts of these had solid stone paths. Probably these were natural erosion. Now these paths are used by farmers to move cattle from one pasture to another. We can attest to that by the cow dung on our shoes. This is the first that we have noticed white quartz in the stone walls that separate the pastures and in the stone barns... Lots of cattle everywhere. This would be a great place to live.

So now we are in Sarria with about 118km or 73 miles to go. I hate to think of this ending ...if only I didn't have the foot issue. Speaking of my feet, I think we did the right thing today. We slowed way down , and had a stroll through the most beautiful mountain villages and farms.

We were going to get a private hostel and have a rest day tomorrow as it will be our 43rd anniversary , however Al just checked the weather and it looks like we may have one more day before the rain comes so we will be walking tomorrow. I'm not sure what Al said in yesterdays blog but I had put those hiking shoes on again cause of the steep rough trail and now I am totally convinced they are causing at least part of my foot issues so today was back to Tevas and Tevas it will be all the eat to Santiago.

The most insuring and unusual siting today was a family of 5 on bikes from Canada. One guy with a two child stroller behind, then his wife with a tandem bike. The kids were about 8, 5, and 3. The smallest had a pacifier. Totally amazing.

We are at a Tapas bar waiting for dinner back at the Albergue. I'll send a pic of the view from our 3rd floor room and patio...10 Euros per person usually they are around 5 to 8 but this is a bigger town.
All is well on the Camino.

Walking Day 27 restated (ignore previous)

Today was a long day.  We had planned to make the last major ascent of the Camino in the morning when we would be fresh.  So after a nice breakfast we were under foot at 0745 and yes it was steep (still not as steep as doing the Catalina ridge).  After we crossed into the Xunta (state) (local dialect replaces the J with X) of Galacia  the farm animals were all along and on the Camino.  It's cool, really! So we arrive at  O'Cebreiro around 1000, another famous place on the Camino where the yellow arrow was started.  This also is a starting point for many pilgrims.  It is interesting to see fresh legs.    They start so eagerly. 

On the way we peaked at Alto do Poco (1335m) with yet another statue, this time a pilgrim walking into a brisk wind.

So now we are in Triacastela named after the 3 castles that are no more, destroyed in any of the many wars.  We have 6 walking days to go and thankfully tomorrow will be a light day, around 19 km and maybe relief for JL.
Al reporting.....

Entering the Xanta de Galicia (Lugo)

Pilgrim walking against the wind at Alto do Poio

Let me through! I need forgiveness!

Walking Day 26

26.1 km from Cacabelos and on the road for 8 hrs. Now in an absolutely beautiful little valley and village of Herrerias with a population of 30. Cow bells fill the air. A small stream is running by and the albergue is terrific. Only 20 beds and one of them is a double, that's nice...I'll be warm tonight.

We made it to our intended destination. The base of the next mountain so we can have the steep climb in the am. This morning when we started at 6:30 it was 5 C but we have gained elevation now and the owner of this house says it was 3 C this morning. We have a few more layers to put on and the first part should be through the woods so maybe protected from the wind.

This morning the first couple hrs were through the vineyards then the dirt trail dropped us down into Villafranca 5,000 population and late enough for coffee bars to be open for breakfast. There was also the 12th century Church of Santiago with it's "door of Forgiveness" Back then In case Pilgrims were to ill or unable to go all the way to Santiago they could receive absolution at the north door. I took a picture of Al at the door.

After breakfast we took the shortest option in routes that followed a river up though the valley with several interesting towns. Many small gardens with the predominant veggies being huge white onions and brussel sprouts. One town had a saw mill and stacked cut wood drying right by the road side. Today the trees were mostly huge chestnut trees still a few polar trees. I never knew chestnut trees could get so big.
Well, showered and warmed by the late after noon sun, clothes already dried and feet (heels and ankles are wrapped in ace wraps and Al and I are relaxing in are double bed... Only 9 other people in our room tonight.
Some of us are having a vegetarian dinner the owner is cooking. She did the Camino a few years ago and stayed, bought this house and turned it into an albergue. Her significant other did the Camino last year, stayed here, met her and stayed. She is from Barcelona and he is from Chicago. Now they run this delightful place.

195 km to go

Walking Day 25

Because we expected it to be cold this morning we enjoyed breakfast and hit the trail at 0800, late for us. This did get us to Ponferrada in daylight. Here the Knight's Templar not only built a Church that was later given Basilica status but also a castle (Castillo de los Templarios) that they occupied until their disbandment in 1312.

The walk out of Ponferrada was long, but brought us to a suburb of large homes before we were back in the countryside. The next 5 km was through small hamlets and parceled private gardens. Today being Sunday many of these gardens were being tended to by their owners. Then we entered the vineyards which were in full harvests. Families were picking, tractors were pulling wagon loads of the grape harvest to the local wineries, and all was a buzz.

Tonight we are in a small albergue in a town of 5000 called Cacabelos. Life is good.

Al reporting....

An days work in Molinacesa

Little Boo Beep

La Cruz de Ferro

Walking Day 24

Well last night we didn't get to hear the Gregorian chant cause the priests all left town on Monday and won't be back till Oct 10th.

Today was 26.5km to Molinaseca but more importantly was that it was back in the mountains and up to the highest point of the Camino on the French route. There is a tradition that when you reach Cruz de Ferro that you leave a stone at the iron cross. I had brought with me a little stone from Cabrillo Beach that was in the shape of a whale. Of course a little prayer for loved ones, something real sappy.

Al and I were so blessed to have great weather today and no rain. The book talked about what a rough mountain track it was going to be and how trecherous it can be. They were correct. It was beautiful, field of heather with oak trees then small pines, then the rocks started chaining getting darker and sharper towards the top till all we were walking on all the way down from the mountain were slate. Rows and rows of vertical slabs of slate, plus lots of loose sharp pieces. I had putt hiking shoes on in the morning although I haven't worn them in 2 weeks cause it seemed like Tevas just might not be practical for those conditions. I think that was the best chives but boy now am I paying for it. Both ankles wrapped tonight and red as can be must like before when I ended up buying the Tevas. So I'm back to Tevas from now on.

So the first town coming down this west side was like coming into a different country. All the houses are dark gray stone with black slate steep roofs and some have really cool slate siding cut in different shapes. The stairs to the houses are just slabs of slate or stones but not cut in rectangles.

I'm getting tired writing but a few other cool things today, were herds of sheep we got to walk though right on our path and the amazing sound of hundreds of bells all with wooden clangers. Better than any wind chime.

We did come across a Pilgrim in need today. It's a long story but he was 72 from Norway and he had fallen and hit his head on the slate rocks, had been bleeding and was a lite dizzy. It ended up with several of us helping him down the mountain, Al carried the mans15kilo pack down plus his own for maybe 1.5Km and another person with a phone who spoke spanish called an ambulance. We got the guy to a road that crossed the Camino. The whole thing took about an hour but we all felt good about being around at the right time to help him.
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Inside Gaudi Palace

Walking Day 23

Astorga to Rabinal : 21.4km five hours of a gentle steady climb, cold and wind in our faces most of the way but with lots of little villages to stop and grab a cup of coffee con leche or quick potty stop. Got a room over a bar that has wifi and a comfy warm place to hang out this afternoon, also has a washer and drier.....not available most albergues and we haven't been able to wash out clothes in a couple days, either in too late or to damp and cold to dry.
We hear the little 12th century church that was built by the Knights Templar when they were here to ensure safe passage of the pilgrims over this remote mountain terrain, has been taken over by an order of German monks and that now the evening vespers at 7 are done in a Gregorian chant.
Now the days get harder again. Tomorrow is the big climb 600 meters to the highest point on the Camino which is 4,940 ft. though the pass of Irago and over the mountain for a very long day. Have to remember one day and one mountain at a time and this day was great...beautiful hillsides of heather and scub oak.
156 miles to go .....but trying not to think of them.

Gaudi's Palace

JL's Motto

Walking Day 22

So today's end found us 2/3 done. But let's not spend much time on the walk as it seems to be a lot of the same. Paved roads (good for feet - boring), stone roads (bad for feet - interesting countryside). Today's end is Astorga where Gaudi built his Palace commissioned by the bishops, never used, and now a museo for the Camino. After 19 miles of walking JL questioned doing 4 stories of spiral staircase. But Gaudi was crazy and the tile work worth the climb. The Cathedral is of red & pink stone, stunning and like the others mentioned before too much to describe, & one that JL says you could miss.

On the trek we did see a young cow's stomach being stitched up by the local vet for what must have been a twisted colon. We also found our first tinto vino grapesto munch on in quite some time and for the first time apples and pears.

Our alberque tonight is the first big dormitory we have been in. Must be 70 beds in one room. JL & I are in side by side lower bunks kinda like a double bed.

Al reporting....

El Refugio deJesus

Walking Day 21

Leon to Mazarife 14.4 miles.
Not much to say. Walked by Fresno but didn't stop. Need I say more. It was nice to be out in the country again after about 2 hrs in traffic leaving Leon.

So we are in a little agricultural town that has lots of flies, rather annoying creatures. You can tell the occupation of must here by the tractors in their driveways.
This is a rather distinct albergue. One with messages written on all the walls, quotes from John Lennon , William Blake, etc. Like an old hippy pad. An artist has many of his paintings here too and all of them remind me of Salvador Dali. Really different than any of the other places.

We are beginning to see the mountains that will soon be in our future. Just have to remember one day at a time.

Al did were we suppose to turn left or right at that Y?

JL & Pepe

Rest Day #2

We slept in to 0900, waken by school kids passing our room at 0830. A lazy breakfast, then our 3rd look at the Cathedral in the morning light prior to the museo tour. Again the museo had priceless treasure of Catholic antiquity, but not as much as Burgos. As we were exiting disaster befell me. While trying to see all the wonder I missed a step and crashed to the floor in the shock that I must have broken my right ankle. JL & the docents rushed to my aide. After a few moments it was clear nothing was broken and ice was applied to my now elevated foot. 30 min later I stood. It appears now after more ice, vino, cervesa, and motrin, disaster is not today. We did tour other churches and museos, but the day has been truly a rest day. We attended the pilgrims mass at the Basilica San Isidoro and we were called forward for a pilgrim's blessing what included a special, very moving hymn. We also saw Pepe, a pilgrim now on his 20th Camino we have previously spoke of, who we last saw some 3 days ago.

Tomorrow, my pace will be slower, which will please JL.

Al reporting.....

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Exterior

More of interior

Inside Leon's Cathedral - No way does this photo come close to the awesome splendor of the color and beauty of the stained glass.

Walking Day 20

Up and out of the Alberque by 6:45, still dark outside. Struggling to repack my backpack in the dark. Thought I lost my favorite little Pelican pen light that Jill gave me and was really upset about it. Most of the way in to Leon was along a very busy highway with blinding headlights for the first hour... And lots of places there was not even much of a shoulder to get off on. Soon that changed and it was just overpasses and suburbs of this bustling city. Of course our guide book says to take a bus into the city or ask your friends to pray for your safety. Following the yellow arrows and brass shells in the sidewalk we were inside the old walled city of Leon by 11:30.

It took us a while to find a Hostel to stay in but we found a very quiet nice one right by the Cathedral. We have been in it twice so far and plan on going in again tomorrow when the museum will be open. There is no way to describe it's beautiful stained glass windows. I doubt there are any more magnificent in the world. If you like stained glass this could be your heaven.
Getting back to the pen light, well before that, al gave me the extra card key to our room , which I proceeded to lost with in the first 20 mins in the room then later found. Then after charging my phone Al gave that back to me and I lost it for at least 10 mins, meanwhile , while looking for other "misplaced items" I found the irreplaceable penlight. All to say I'm ready for a Rest Day tomorrow. I'm usually so good about putting everything back in there place every time.... Just not today.

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Walking Day 19

Hermanillos to Mansilla today for 15.2 miles. 229.7 to go to Santiago. Gee thats like walking to Lynnette's and back......from San Pedro.
Well it is 2:30 pm. Sitting in the sun in the patio of the Municipal albergue in Mansilla de las Mulas after my shower with my feet up on a chair. One day from Leon. Al is around at the corner bar checking email on the net ,no wi fi around.

You know, when I'm walking I think of so many things I want to tell all of you but by the time we get our destination for the day, find an albergue that has a bed, take shower, wash clothes, I'm so exhausted I have no interest in typing on my iPhone. One thing...Spain siesta varies from town to town but basically everything closes between 1or 2 and 5. So site seeing is later and getting food for the next day usually we do after 5.

Today was our second day on the old Roman road in the middle of nowhere. The walk was beautiful. We started a little late, about 7 and it was cold but clear, no breakfast but had three hard boiled eggs we ate before leaving the albergue. I wear shorts and today a fleece and sandals with light socks. We knew there were no towns for 17 kms and no water so we were prepared. The first 17 kms on the Roman road got harder and more tiring with every stone. When I see these roads coming now I always get the same visual image...my feet in a rock tumbling machine. At first I used to see my shoes in the tumbler with my feet still I'm them but now I just see my feet being tumbled with the rocks. Today even Al was saying ok enough rocks. Really hard on the ankles too. Perfect size loose stones for making walking a hazard, round about 2 to 4 inches in diameter all uneven. I'm glad I brought my walking stick. Even with all that misery there are the most incredible little violet colored flowers like tiny day lilies or crocus that come up like little white pointed toothpicks then burst open with about 8 petals of the most awesome color but no leaves or stems.
Amazing country side today. There are rolling fields, mostly wheat I think. Stands of pine, oak and sycamore trees. Huge farm equipment, tractors and irrigation systems, the circular kind. Old and new aquaducts between the fields with deep fast running water. Looking off to the North we can see the mountains clealy now. I think of my Mom and Dad often cause they would love these fields and all the cool equipment .
All is well on the camino. Traffic and a busy highway into Leon in the morning will certainly test are patience.

Walking Day 18

Today was another day on the Mesa.  We were on the Camino at 0611 and it was muy frio.  The sky had cleared and Venus led our way West.  We found a small bar open at 0730 for Cafe con Leche and a Chocolate pastry that fortified us for the next hours.  We arrived in Sahagun at 1000 and found WeeFee (WiFi) and quickly posted the 17th, read our emails and saw some ruins from the XI c. The most important Benedict Monastary in Espania and a church dating back to the same time with many repairs and ultimate failure were the signature of this small town.  The choice from here was to follow the highway (like I-5) or take the Roman road of isolation.  As you have guessed we went left with the Romans.  This was a nice change from the bordom of the mesa.  Here we found rolling countryside with small forest glades of scub oaks etc.  We now were alone with no hoards or bikes.  This must have been what it was like centuries ago.  We came across a fuente (fountain) for pilgrims that had the best tasting water to date.  On we went till we found our destination of Calzadilla de los Hermainillos, a quiet hamlet of well maintained homes with BMW´s etc parked in front of their homes.  Here we found our respite at the muni albergue that is by donation only.  The proprietor is a volunteer who has done the Camino 3 times, the last falling ill and being helped by other pilgrims.  So each year he spends 2 or 3 weeks running an albergue as his give back.  The pilgrim dinner tonight was a wonderful asparigus and leek soup with pork chops or pollo, and flan.  The young couple that ran the hostel seemed very upbeat despite the low dinner attendence as their season is drawing to a close.  Onward we march with Leon 2 days away and a rest day in sight.

Al reporting....

JL in the rain on the plain

Walking Day 17

Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de lis Templarios. Half way to Santiago de Compostela!! 396.6 Km.to go. To day a cold wet front came through , we got in before it rained too hard but it was windy all day. Now feels like snow!!!! 26.8 Km or 16.6 miles today and in the Albergue by a little after 1.
So spent the afternoon in there rest/bar with a Canadian couple. Our young Japanese friend that we hadn't seen for a week showed up on the path today and is in the bed next to me tonight so we are catching up and her experiences since we last talked. She had been having lots of foot problems and her pack was too heavy so she also lightened her pack , sent lots of things including her hiking boots back to Japan and bought another pair of lighter shoes, had two rest days and now has caught up to us. She is in her 20's and is for now walking with a Japanese and Korean guys around her age. They are in our room too and a lot of fun.
Had dinner tonight with our 5 French friends who will be leaving the "way" tomorrow and taking a train back to France. They walk a couple weeks every year together. We will miss them. In fact lots of the people we've met are no longer walking for various reasons. Some though are in for the whole distance, or that is their intent.

The walk today was sooooooo boring. Yes it was partly on a 200,000 year old Roman road but 17km of straight gravel roads flat with the same scene over and over again. Oat fields, sunflower fields with occasional rows of poplar trees, really flat. We sure hope tomorrow brings a little variety but others have said it is like this for a few more days. All 16.6 miles in my Tevas today and just a little soreness in my feet. I think Tevas are my friends.

The town is tiny It was a stronghold of the Knights Templar now has several huge grain storage barns and lots of tractors. Time to get some sleep. All is well on the Camino.
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Walking Day 16

Today came w/ light drizzle so the ponchos were on. Most of the rain was during the night so the rain gear went away at first light. This was a short day at 12.5 miles. Usual dark departure and now a little repetitive as we are walking the Mesa. It was nice to get away from the roads w/ a long walk alongside a rio. The smell of fresh cut hay, hundreds of different birds, cattails along the rio, frogs crooking was delightful. Passed by church ruins that showed transitions in construction. Strange to see stone damage repaired w/ adobe. The plains are now more clayish and adobe is prevalent everywhere. We are now in Carrion de los Condes where we decided to stay in a Hostel instead of a Albergue as the refuges we looked at were large dormitories with many beds and few showers where snoring would be a real issue for JL. I can use ear plugs which for me are effective. JL does not like them. My bout with uneasy stomach has passed.
Al reporting...

New Tevas

Non Operational Locks

Canal on Camino

Walking Day 15

25.5km from Castrojeriz to Fromista on fairly smooth dirt roads after a strenuous climb out of Castrojeriz. Then back down to an amazing green valley with garden crops .Puente de Itero is a Romanesque bridge with even arches over the Pisuerga river.... Thus we are now in the province of Palencia. Up again to a tree lined path along 18th century canals which were designed for irrigation , it also provided transportation for crops and power to turn corn mills.

Fromista is best known for it's 11th century Iglesia de San Martin finished in 1066. It is said that it is the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain. So beautifully simple except for the 300 corbels carved of animals , human a d mystical creatures. Quiet different is the Gothic church of San Pedro about 2blocks away.

I bought a pair of Tevas last night .... Amazing find from a lite store that had "a thing a Peregrino could need. Al even found a Micro fiber towel to replace the one he left a week ago in a albergue. (His favorite Bermuda yacht club one)
Anyway I wore them for about 2 out of the 6 hrs walking today and I think my heels feel a little better. We are in the Muncipal albergue tonight, 8 to a room with 6 rooms, really basic . Two womens showers and heads on this floor but clean so I'm set.

Al isn't feeling great today , a little upset stomach and head ache , says he feels like he is catching a cold. Tbe temperature really swings from cold in the morning to still high 80's in the afternoon and walking in the heat I think really takes it toll. We are hoping tomorrow will be a healthy day... Rain is predicted for the next 3 days.

Al is recording all the countries that we have met people from . At one rest stop today we ca
Chatted with people from Mex, France, India, Germany and a couple hrs later met a young man from Denmark that is a marine engineer that sails for Mersk. The Camino is a struggle but it is an amazingly positive experience. Everyone we have met along the way have been just what you'd hope the whole world could be like.

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Walking Day 14 - Early morning on the Mesa

Walking Day 14

Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz. Distance today 21.2 km. Perfect walking weather and perfect road conditions, dirt and gravel with only a few rocks. I slowed the pace a little and there were no really steep climbs and my feet are thanking me.

The Mesa is flat and a bit boring but it is very different than where we have walked. No towns so far on the Mesa , the towns are down in little valleys where there is water and they are protected from the wind. Some cool streams and lots of groves of Poplar trees. We walked through two little towns this morning and by the ancient monastery and hospice of the Antonine Order founded in France in the 11th century. St. Anthony was a patron St of animals and was usually depicted with a pig at his feet. The Orders sacred symbol was a T shaped cross known as Tau, which symbolizes Devine protection against evil and sickness. This cross is now known as the Pilgrim Cross Cruz del Peregrino. There is a Church or Cathedral in every town and often they are open and we go in for a few mins. They are always a cool sanctuary in the heat of the day. Thick stone walls are amazing.

So just over 200 miles completed and 291.4 to go to Santiago.

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Walking Day 13

Burgos to Hornillos 12.7 miles. Walking out of Burgos this morning before the town was awake was really cool . Literally it was 50 degrees with a strong crisp wind from behind the whole way. For a couple kms we walked under arched trees following brass shells in the stone pavers.

Almost before you realize it you are back in the country again on a long country road gradually climbing...then a steady "uppy" as Al says. He has coined are little grand daughter Stella's saying when she wants to be carried up hills. It was really interesting today as we got to the Mesa how much the soil color changed including the rocks. They seem to be all limestone now instead of sandstone, and the crops are now oats and barley instead of wheat and the sunflower fields are stunted...to about 2ft instead of over my head. That's for you farmers out there.
Walking as fast as I can we arrived in time for lunch so bought the usual bread and cheese in the local market and even had a tomato with it today. Oh yes Al had his wine, so we had lunch in the square in front of the Church before the Albergue opened. The town has a population of 76. All sleeping spaces are filled so the town has opened the gym for overflow. We are meeting new friends so time to go. All is well on the Camino.

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Rest Day #1

Today we took our first day off in this beautifully town of Burgos. 200,000 people and the 2nd largest Cathedral  in Spain.  It took 300 years to build and they are constantly restoring it.  Al and I went to the mass today then to the museum of human evolution and walked around the beautiful parks by the river lined with cafes and fountains.
There is a lot to see here as it is the center of so much Spanish history.   Mostly I tried to just stay off my feet and rest my ankles to get ready to begin the Camino again early in the morning. 

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Cathedral de Santa Maria where El Cid & his wife Jimena are interred. We attended Sunday Mass here after touring the extensive Chapels and grounds.

Walking Day 12

We began this cold day a little later as the walk would be shorter and we planned on staying at a hostel for 2 days. So off at 0730 in dawn light we went passing Atapuerca, where the oldest Homo Antecessor has been found (900,000 hrs). The rest was just walking rolling hills until we reached the outskirts of Burgos. The walk in was thru industrial areas that were boring except for the San Miquel plant. We found a Hostel with plenty of room and a nice bath for our 2 day stay where we dropped our packs, took a short nap and headed out for food and drink. This town has a lot to see. Here C Columbus was received on his 1st return and El Cid is laid to rest on the cathedral.
Al reporting

Walking day 11

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Walking Day 11

27.7 km from Belorado to Ages. Not a long day but three steep parts. First 15 miles was great as far as my ankles go but the last 2.4 miles felt like another ten....How ever the fun part ..... How many times do you ever get to pass bikes? Twice today we got to pass the same three bikers so the second time I used my little emergency whistle to assure safe passing...like they sometimes do when they are flying by. Really broke these guys up laughing. They were struggling with their loaded bikes up these steep rocky paths through pine forests.

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Day 11 - Ages - Local artist has great sense of humor w/ flowered tree and maze of faces based on painting "The Scream"

Day 10 crossing from La Rioja into Castilla y Leon.

Walking Day 10

15 miles of walking through the biggest wheat fields I've ever seen. No more blackberries or grapes, which makes for a very limited breakfast along the way. We did go by 4 or 5 tiny towns all with churches and one monastery so we did get to stop for coffee and a sweet. They have these great little hard donuts.

The last few nights we have had 12 to 18 people to a room and no space to stretch out so tonight we are splurging. In a private albergue with a private room and bath for 45euros usually the albergues are by donation or 5 to 8 euros. It is now 1:30 and we have already showered and Al is washing out clothes to hang and start drying before we go find lunch. Last nights Albergue was a nice new place but 3 stories with beds for 200 we didn't have room to hang our laundry.

About 10 this morning I was getting tired and felt my left heel really hurting again so we stopped at a water fountain that had a bench and shade of a horse chestnut tree where I proceeded to take off my shoes and socks to find that all the padding that I had so diligently applied last night had slide down and gotten entangled in my socks to make my heal problems even worse. Took all the Compeed off, had Al dig out the "foot repair kit" and reapplied compeed to one actual blister. Massaged my feet, put back on the socks, retied the shoes, wiggled my toes, feeling great..... Then stood up and Ekkkk!!!! Pain returning said the F word then told myself to "get a grip, this is what you want to be doing. At least you don't have to hand dig a 40ft trench in DG for a new propane line!

Lunch and a nap with feet up and now enjoying a cool quiet lounge. As we get further along the way more and more people are on the path. We still run into people we started with and it is so much fun. One Frenchman who started in Paris we see almost every day, one guy who started in Germany but now he is behind us. So far we have only met 4 people from the US, 2 young guys from Pa and Ohio and 1 women from Chicago 72 and a young woman from Roseville Ca.

Going to go check out some cave dwellings behind the Church before dinner, they were used by "hermits" then one was killed and became a saint .
We are in Belorado going to San Jaun tomorrow which may be a really difficult day. 15 miles, but steep ups and downs. Not rolling hills like today. So glad we had the ridge at Catalina to practice on.
JL

Walking Day 9

Today was a long day, but yesterday was a needed rest day for JL, so 30.4 km (19 miles) had to be walked.  Funny thing was that we met an English speaking woman in Najera (the town we should have walked to yesterday) and she told us that when she arrived there was no room at the inn (I guess time for the manger or gym floor).  Anyway one of the albergue´s was closed for fumigation, as bed bugs were found in 3 of the beds.  This lady took a bus to where we are now for the night and a bus back so she didn´t miss any part of the walk.  So our stay in Ventosa was fortunate, as we had a nice pilgrims dinner with lots of local wine (what a surprise) and a great sleep.  Only problem was I left my very nice Gill rapid dry towel w/ the Newport-Bermuda logo on it.  Drat!!!  Not much to say about the walk, as it was mostly on dirt roads over rolling country through the farmlands.  Tinto grapes are riper, sweeter and easier to pluck from the stem.

 

We started in the dark under the milky way with no moon and are now in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, named after a hermit that was expeled from the monastary in the early 11c for being iliterate, which in English means St Dominic of the Road.  This hermit build roads, bridges, hospitals and refuges for the pilgrams traveling thru. The town catheral started as a church in 1098, and improved 5 different times in the 12th, 14th, 15th, 17th and 19th c.  Not to overdo the religious thing, there is one really unique thing about this catheral.  It has a pair of chickens that are in resident at all times.  One cock, one hen.  They work 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off. There is a miracle story behind this, but I will not go into it now.

 

For those who are asking the mileage count to date is 214.3 km or 133 miles walked; 584.3 km or 363.1 miles to go.

 

Tomorrow is a shorter day.  Thank heavens for JoLinda´s swollen ankles and sore feet.

Al reporting

Walking Day 8

Short day feet need time off...stopped in Ventosa. Only 20 km and here by 11 am. Left the big city at 6:45 finding yellow arrows was difficult in the dark with so many distractions of the city. Nice rain shower this morning to cool us off. Walked through lots of vineyards this morning. Why do all these towns have to be on the tops of each hill???? 605.3 km to go.

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Sunday Mass in Los Arcos complete w/ pilgrims blessing.

There's more than 1 Lush among the Reinrags! JoLinda is drinking at the Fuente del Vino for pilgrims at 0830. Again, this is really the Camino de Vino.

Walking Day 7

27.8 km today with 635 km to Santiago. Great morning walk starting before first light at 6:30 though farmlands then up to Torres del Rio and then to Viana by 11:30 where we had planned on staying but the morning had been cool with cloud cover and we felt great. Toured the beautiful 13 century Viana Iglesia de Santa Maria, then decided to go to the next town 8.8 km further since the Albergues usually don't open till 2. Of course, as soon as we got down off the hill the cloud cover burned off and again the heat sored. By the time we got to Logrono every one was drying. The twon must be used to Pulgrims and their needs. The first thing you reach coming into town is a 150 ft foot and leg bath type fountain . Backpacks dropped all along the terraced pool and 20 or so hot burning footed pilgrims including Al and I felt we were truly blessed. Stayed just long enough to here "no room at the inn when we got to the Albergue , so we were sent to the parish overflow...mostly pads on the floor but because I look " old" with my gray we were given premier status and got the last two upper bunks. Now we are drinking beer at a wifi bar. All is well on the camino. Actually a few of the group that we started out with have had to stop due to the difficulty and strains on the feet. It isn't just blisters , it is the pounding and the rocks just take there toll.
We are so enjoying the people we met again and again....now they are like long lost cousins we haven't seen for two whole days. Better drink my beer mass is at 7. First time in my life I have felt welcome at a Catholic church, but I need all the blessings I can get.:

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Relaxing along the way and after a long day

Walking Day 6

I'm lying on my back on a hill in the shade with my feet higher than my head....head down hill. I never could have guessed how hard this is. I never thought it would be tihs hot. It is exhausting just to be in the sun not even pushing up miles of hills. Most of us have heat rashes some where, mine is on my feet and they are swollen and itchy. Good news is my blisters are much better, now just my swollen ankles to deal with. High top boots were one of those non-essentials I sent to Santiago. Oh well, they did cause the first blisters.
We are all showered and cleaned up for dinner but at 6:30 in the sun it is still over 85. it was again today at least 95 and we walked 6 hours , no coffee or lunch on the way, did have coffee bread and jam at the albergue before we left this morning, and only a couple shirt rest breaks. I have to do better with the breaks.
It was a beautiful walk though mostly rolling country. Lots of grape vineyards both red and green and still a few blackberries. Several pretty steep sections up to old fortresses and churches.

We are in Los Arcos and have had the great pleasure of seeing the inside of the Parroguia de SantaMaria, one of the most impressive cathedrals I have ever seen. It was built in the 12th century but has been embellished in 16,17,and18th cen so it has Gothic, Boroque and Classical styles and a Renaissance bell tower. We attended the evening mass and after the reg mass the priest brought all of us Pilgrims to the front and talked to each asking where we were from and giving each of us a blessing written in our own languages. There were approximately 50 of us at the mass and probably more than 100 of us in town.

Our guide book has us doing 17 miles tomorrow but we are planning to make tomorrow a short day, hopefully my ankles and feet can get back closer to there normal size.

Have to go, have 15 mins before lights out and I still have to pack up so we can leave quietly in the morning. All is well on Camino.
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Walking day 5

A short day that started w/ a small redo. We listened to church bells all night. That's 1 alto bell at 15 min past the hour, 2 at 30, 3 at 45, and 4 at the hour plus 1 bass (loud) bell for each hour of the day or in this case night. So we were on the road at 7:30 walking down an old romanesque road to the bridge ruins (about .5 k) when JL noticed she didn't have her stick. Did I mention downhill? Well nothing to do but go back, so JL waited w/ my pack while back UP hill I went. Guess I got paid back for extending day 4.
The road to Estella is lined w/ blackberries, wine grapes and other fruits not yet ripe. We feasted on the bb's and had our first taste of sweet tinto grapes. This slowed the pace but today was to be a short day anyway. Estella is a big town, and our 1st that did't seem pristinely clean, that has wifi. This town is known for the meeting place of kings, churches and warring. We found the cold salt water spring to be the best relief for JL's toes. We toured some museums and churches and found a small albergue for the night. 663 k to Santiago.
A

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Estella abergue

Entering Pamplona

Pamplona Post Office

Walking Day 4

What a day! 32k in blazing heat by late afternoon. Feet are killing me and little toe now has 2 blisters, dehydrated, sun rash on right arm-a real mess. Really over did it.

Actually the day started out great. Said goodby to the Pyreneese, beachwoods and Pine forests and the sites back toward Pamplona. Say hello to stones, rocks, rocky fields and a rocky Way. Last night in Cizur Menor the town was having a dedication festival with fire works and dancing tall puppets and lots of candy thrown to the kids.
We left this morning at 6:45 and climbed steadily for two hrs to the 790m Alto del Perdon , a sculpture dedicated to pilgrims. That entire ridge is lined with wind mills. Beautiful up there , looking back to Pamplona. From there of course an even steeper downhill on really rocky path into the next valley...now starting to heat up. Took a 1.5k detour to see the Eunate church linked with the Knight Templars and also a burial site for pilgrims who had succumbed along the Way. It is an octagonal form, very cool.
In the valley we were treated to endless miles of blackberries, gardens and fields of asparagus, tomatoes, beans and corn. When we got to Puente La Reina it was very busy. So we decided to keep walking over the Queens bridge to the next town....not a good idea. Next town's albergue was closed, so had to keep walking. Now close to 100 degrees I'd guess... And way up on a hill you could see the medieval town of Cirauqui. Beautiful to say the least, so far my favorite town. Even went to Mass before the pilgrim meal at the Albergue. Al and I were so beat we opted for a more expensive private room so we'd have are own shower at a whopping 40 euro.
A great meal with all the crazy Aussie and Germans , esparagus soup and pasta wine and bread, about 10 Euros. So now if I can get back my energy and restore my feet over night all will be well again on the Camino.
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Walking Day 3

Today we finished stage 3, traveling from Larrasoana to Cizur Menor via Pamplona.  This was a much better day than yesterday´s stage 2 that began with the photo of JL next to the road sign showing 790 km to Santiago de Compostella, taken as we left Roncesvalles.  We had breakfast at a famous cafe in Burguete that Hemmingway frequented.  Although the day had an overall drop in elevation of 400 meters, it was up and down accross the entire 27 k.  Part of the path was like a really steep river bed and some was along pastures through beachwood forests and really dusty hot roadways.  Our packs seemed to double in weight.  Last night´s albergue (pilgram´s refuge) was 6 € each, dinner was 9 €.  We took a photo of the group meal to give a sense of the commradere and will post when we can get a wifi signal. 

Today up and out the door before daylight we walked along a river with crossing many romansque bridges, visiting a 13th century church that had a 7th century bell and a 18th century altar. Our first coffee of the day happened when we heard music coming from an old stone building across from an older church in the middle of nowhere.  the resident had set up a picnic table offering fruit and drink.  We then trekked through Arre, a small town with historic sections and modern homes.  All along the decision to lighten our packs was discussed.  When we arrived in Pamplona, we found the postoffice and sent 4.1 kg ahead to Santiago.  We thought we left home with only the essentials.  Funny how carrying all your stuff on your back for 68 km changes what truly is essential.  With lighten packs we enjoyed the historic sites of Pamplona, had a great little lunch in a local bar  and walked mostly urban paths to Cizur Menor where we are enjoying one of the nicest albergue of the camino.

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Pilgrims Dinner at Hotel Posada

Walking Day1

Day one was a success, as hard as expected so I'm massaging my feet. If we had to go home tomorrow it would have been wort it. First person I met was a young kid from Altuna PA, today we talked to another young guy who had done the 4day Inka trail the same year we did it. Most amazing and surprising thing today were the huge wild horses up by the pass and the sleep hills covered with sheep and goats everywhere. Most to to dinner or miss it. All is well on the Camino.

1st dqy

Well we left the house at 0400 Sun and arrived in Madrid at 0730 local time.  Caught 2 buses and were in San Sabastion at 1430.  After a 15 min walk we were on the 1st of 3 trains to St Jean.   All check in.  Ready for bed.  Walk starts in the morning.  So far internet difficult and wifi not working.

Al & <j

JoLinda