Walking Day 20-Tiebas to Puente la Reina. 19km

Yeah!  We made it, we are done walking for now.  It turned out to be a very hot day, although last night it was in the 40's.  We started about 7:45 walking down from the hillside town and under a big road to find an old railroad track to follow up to a path that lead up over a hill and though farmland most of the way.  We did find a small town to have coffee and a strange but good sandwich of hard bread and bacon or pancetta . 

Note my magic pink runners recover socks.
 

It started to get exciting when we knew we were close to Santa Maria de Eunate and more so when we walked through the arbor and it appeared.  

Eunate is Basque for "a hundred doors".  The chapel dates from 1170.  We don't know why but you are suppose to walk around it without your shoes...the stones on edge are suppose to heal your feet... I'm for that.  I'll tell you, this time around on day 20 was a lot easier on my feet than in 2010 when it was only on day 4 or five.

So we got into Puente la Reina about 1:30 and found are Spanish buddies sitting in a little park by the albergue ...we said good-by with hugs like old friends and walked on to explore the town and decide how to celebrate and what to do next.  

Ended up getting a bus to Pamplona, a bus from there to the train station and are now on a train to Leon where we plan on resting for a few days before heading for Barcelona.

It will take some time to say how we feel about this Camino because it was so different from the last one. Al and I both agree it is so special to spend such intense time with each other where we are mutually dependent on each other always remembering the pilgrim attitude of no complaints and always to showing kindness.  There is just no better way to experience nature than up close walking for days, everyday as though that's the only thing that matters.  You see  plants and birds differently  when you have time to notice that a little bird flying from one bush to another doesn't lift up "his landing gear."

On the train now, I'm remembering how long this took by foot on the last Camino and now it's taking only 4 hrs....but I can't feel the earth on my feet.

Walking Day 19 - Izco to Tiebas -22 km

The night was cold and we rose early, made instant cafe, had some sweet cakes and were out the door at 7:45am.  Before we left we saw the 2 Spaniards working on a foot that looked terrible.  Blisters everywhere.  No wonder he was hopping when he came.

The 9km walk to Monreal was undulating along fields and into the forest.  The path along the fields was dry and the clay showed cracking, but the path in the woods was still wet and there was standing water in many areas.  It's appropriate that we saw our 1st tribute to feet by a passing pilgrim as JL's heels are beginning to throb in the evenings.

So 10am in Monreal and Cafe con leche with a quiche plate in a 2nd floor bar near the church where we again saw the 2 Spaniards, now drinking cervesa.  They are speedy. We left a little behind them and watched them take off.  As we were starting up another incline, 2 local walkers beckoned to us from another path.  First we thought they were trying to tell us we were off the Camino, but what they told us was that there was a hidden waterfall a couple minutes walk where they had come from.  We took a look and it was a nice little surprise and treat. The rest of the days path was up and down steep gullies around a mountain.

The day contined to warm and Al finally got to unzip his pant legs, now the first time in shorts.  Here the farmland is extensive without farmhouses, but with many small hamlets suggesting that the farms maybe collectives.  From the elevated path there is a good view of the broad Pomplona valley.  Photos cannot really show what the eye sees.

 As we walked into Tiebas we saw the ruins of a C13 castle.  The wall thickness looked to be 10 feet.

We decided to stay at a private Albergue which gave us a private room with shared shower and toilet facilities.  The 2 Spaniards stayed at the municipal Albergue but joined us for dinner.

Tomorrow is our last walking day and good thing as JL's feet are telling her enough is enough!  19 km to go.
 
 
 
 

 

 

Waliking Day 18 Sanguesa to Izco via Foz de Lumbier 21km

Monday - June 3, 2013

A warm sunny day in Navarra, Spain.  Pack is much heavier as it now has all the extra layers that I don't need on me anymore and it has my hiking boots and jacket stuffed inside.  Finally in shorts and Tevas,  there is a brisk head wind but that just cools you down.

We took the variant path to the gorge and were not disappointed.  The path from the town of Liedena is a gravel path which was a former railway track that follows the Irati river and the base of the cliffs of Cresta Trinidad to the gorge, Foz de Lumbier.  

 
 

It was stunning and Al counted over thirty huge birds soaring on the thermals and nesting in the cliffs.  We think they were Griffon vultures and other raptors.  Gorge is over 150 mts deep and has two tunnels in and out and one is over 206m.  Wish I had a long lens for the birds.

The rest to the day, actually from 8:30 till we got to the Albergue was all up hill. Walking up a Valley over a pass always getting closer to windmills on the ridges.  Decided to call it a day around 2:45 as we enter the tiny community of Izco.  A women in a car stopped on the hill as we were climbing up to the town and asked if we were needing a place to stay for the night, answering yes she told us to just sit in the sun by the Albergue and she'd be back in about 30 mins.  So we are the only ones here tonight but that's ok.  Our friends didn't go to the gorge and walked on further to the next town...that's the way of the Camino.  Looks like noodles and tuna tonight no meals here just a little pantry you can buy a few items and cook them in the Albergue kitchen.

Al and I have been so fortunate to not have any feet, shoulder or knee issuers this trip...having said that, last night was the first that I started really feeling my feet but just the Achilles' tendons .  I think they are a bit bruised from steep uphill trudging in my boots..  Anyway tried the Tevas today as there was no mud and they seem to be a little better.   Only two walking days left if all goes well. We are ahead of  schedule.  Hummmmm, maybe rest a day along the way?    Pictures today taken with Al's iPad Mimi.

Clothes drying out side alberque.

Late arrivals .....two Spanish pilgrims came in the back door about 6:45, boisterous and glad to be here.  They had walked 40 Km .  They plunked there stuff down on a bed and started taking off their shoes...the caretaker was due back at 7:00 to open up the pantry store for us  so she signed them in and actually opened the bar for them to get a beer... We had a great evening with them.  Funny pair,  they had opposite personalities but lots of fun.  One kept telling the other not to be so theatrical...dinner was lentil soup and noodles Parmesan and of course bread and wine.   No heat in these communal albergues but lots of wool blankets.  I think the entire cost for the night including stuff we fixed for dinner , wine , breakfast and cheese and bread for today's lunch was 39 Eu.
 
 

 

Walking Day 17 - Ruesta to Sanguesa - 23k

So first off major tech issue as our handy little sd card reader for photos is not working and we did not realize it till arrival in Sanguesa, so no photos of today's travel.  We will use iPhones tomorrow to capture some photos.

Last nights Albergue was cold.  We were out of there at 7:30AM and first headed down to cross a river before beginning a 300+ meter climb in extensive pinewoods over Mount Fenerol.  Fortunately this climb was gradual over 6km.  At 11AM we found our way into Undues de Lerda, another hilltop community, where the towns bar was open for cafe con leche.  The stop was quick and we were off again now walking generally down along rolling fields in sunshine but windy.  We saw the largest and densest field of poppies mixed In with other flowers yet.  Here we left the Province of Aragon (once a kingdom of lore) and entered Navarra.  Navarra was as we recalled, large rolling fields but with considerable rock in the soil.

Just outside of Sanguesa we came across an old man who walked with us for about 1 km.  He spoke rapid Spanish, and although we kept saying "no comprende" he kept going.  In the end we came to a y in the road and he went right to his casa and we could again walk in piece.  Sanguesa is a nice little town with few lodging places. We chose not stay at the municipal Albergue with our other pilgrims and instead chose a hotel.  Get the name - Hotel Yamaguchi!

We are now 63 km from our finish at Puente la Reina.  We are choosing to take a variant route tomorrow to see a "spectacular" gorge, which may leave us with no place to stay.  Buts that's tomorrow's blog.

Walking Day 16- Arres to Ruesta 27km

We were all up and out of the cool little Albergue by 7:15 and started down the hill just as the sun appeared from behind the mountain. 

This was one of my favorite days. Sun on and off but no rain to speak of. Gusting wind but great temp for walking. We are still coming down from the mountains but today things have flattened out a bit.  The scenery is fantastic.  Looking back at Arres. High on the right side of the mountain.

Just when you have had enough of the path it changes completely. 

Looking back over a field of Poppies with the snow covered Pyrenees from whence we came.

Of course the only place for lunch is a little town of Artieda (about 1200 m uphill).

We all walk at different speeds but usually are only half hr or so apart so often meet sometime during the day; however, we have one man who is 73, a mountain guide who has lead expositions in Peru and Nepal and is married to the women with the sunglasses on her visor.  She arrived at the lunch spot and says she has lost her husband...he obviously decided not to climb the hill for lunch but was so far ahead of her that she didn't see him continue on.  When she got to Ruesta he had already been there for 2 hours wondering where she was.... He is fast.

Two interesting things on this section are the strange badlands scenery..I think it is limestone mounds...like a moonscape.

The other is the Yesa Reservoir damming the Aragon river started in 1928, opened in 1959 but remains highly controversial.   After 20 years of debate it has been given the ok to raise the water...thus the reason for the protests as it will effect many towns and the Camino.

Then there was the last steep climb up to Ruesta for the night.

Ruesta was an important medieval village guarding the frontier between Navarra and Aragon.  There are remains of a fortress, constructed by the Moors. It had a pilgrim hospital there in 1087 and today the pilgrim Albergue is the only thing in the town. The town was abandoned in 1959 due to the anticipated effects of the Yesa Dam.  

My camera iPad connector stopped working...... Oh no....and had some great pics of the ruins where we stayed.

Walking Day 15 - Jaca to Arres via bus to San Jaun de la Pena - 25km

One of the must see places on Argones Camino is the old and new San Jaun de la Pena monasteries.  If you attempt to walk the 500 meter elevation gain you arrive to late to see the sights.    So we took the workers bus at 9:25am and arrived at the upper newer (built in 1675 and abondoned in 1835) monastery at 10AM and began the tour which was an inturpretive center built over the actual ruins.

We then walked a km down hill to the older monastery (built C10 and destroyed by fire in 1675) and  toured it.  It is completely built into the hillside.

 

Having seen the sights we started downhill again some 3.4 km to Santa Cruz de la Seros with 1060 
Convent where many royal and nobel widows took their vows.  After touring the church we found a bar for cafe and a sweet.  To our surprise in walked JL's sister MaryEllen.  She was gracious enough to allow her picture to be taken.  What a hoot.

It was now just past noon and we had miles to do. So we booked as fast as we could.  We found our hilltop Albergue at 6PM.  After checking in we headed for the bar for cervesa with dinner at 7 PM.

The Albergue was typical of others and seemed like home with 12 pilgrims staying the night.  But alas no wifi so publishing this must wait a day.

All is well on the Camino 
 

 

 
 

 
 

Rest Day 1 - Jaca

In the low 40's and on and off light sprinkles most of the day mixed with wonderful sunshine.   Our little Casa Mamre is just around the corner from the Cathedral of San Pedro C11th and the Diocesan Museum of Jaca, which was open in 1970 in the cloister.  

The museum has what's considered the most important collection of medieval art in Spain outside Barcelona.  Amazing frescos removed from churches in the area to protect them.  Not only that but it was out of the rain, no backpacks and relatively warm so we took our time this morning enjoying the art.  Sorry, no pictures allowed.

Later we walked a few blocks to the Ciudadela, an enormous C17th citadel where deer roam in the dry moat and visited the castle and the museum of miniature soldiers...

Off to a Tapas bar/restaurant for an early meal.  Plates of local mushrooms, calamari, and eggplant  spears deep fried with basaltic and honey sauce....we could just stay here and eat for a few more days.

Mushrooms from the mountains before they were cooked.

Jaca is my new favorite town.  Oh yes I forgot as we were paying the bill, our waitress, the owner's daughter brought us complimentary shot glasses of sweet liquor that she had made and little biscuits that her Mom had made.

It's raining again but we're tucked in a warm room enjoying the rest day.