Auch to L'Isle de Noe - 24 km - 15 m - May 20
We left our hotel with sunny skies at 8:45AM and headed back to the cathedral via the 236 steps that lead up from the Gers River bank. From here we rejoined the Camino and walked 17 km along farm roads and paths to Barran.
Barran is a partly moated "Bastide" with one of France's 33 helicoidal spired churches. It was a little after noon when we arrived and we were in search of a rest and lunch.
All the shops, restaurants, and bars were closed and things were looking bleak. We asked 2 women about the closures and they explained it was a Catholic Holy Day, so nothing was open. One asked if she could give us something, but we begged off, thanking them, saying we would press on to the next hamlet. We were some 50 meters away when one of the ladies ran up to us inviting us to join she, her sister and 20 more of their friends for a special meal. We again declined but she insisted, so we said oui. The two sisters escorted us into their 87 yr old wheel chair bound mom's house, telling us where to drop our packs, not letting us remove our muddy boats, to a large room where their friends were all enjoying an aperitif and hors d'oeuvres. We munched on quiches, mushrooms, and pizza squares. Then the main dining room doors were opened and all were beckoned in for what was a 5 course dinner with 2 wines and champagne followed by a fruit tart for dessert.
This all lasted some 3 hrs, with conversation and song in French, English, And Spanish. The 20 friends were retired teachers, nurses, a beautician, a midwife, and a large farm farmer. Four were late arriving as they had been to a bullfight in a neighboring town. Some of the group had visited California 2 years ago. They were a fun group who were glad to have us share their holiday party, teasing us as being lucky to arrive for such a special feast. So we bid our au revoir's and set off again - well fed - for another 7 km to L'Isle de Noe arriving about 5:30PM and finding Mme Moody's small hotel for pilgrims.
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