Today was a long day, but yesterday was a needed rest day for JL, so 30.4 km (19 miles) had to be walked. Funny thing was that we met an English speaking woman in Najera (the town we should have walked to yesterday) and she told us that when she arrived there was no room at the inn (I guess time for the manger or gym floor). Anyway one of the albergue´s was closed for fumigation, as bed bugs were found in 3 of the beds. This lady took a bus to where we are now for the night and a bus back so she didn´t miss any part of the walk. So our stay in Ventosa was fortunate, as we had a nice pilgrims dinner with lots of local wine (what a surprise) and a great sleep. Only problem was I left my very nice Gill rapid dry towel w/ the Newport-Bermuda logo on it. Drat!!! Not much to say about the walk, as it was mostly on dirt roads over rolling country through the farmlands. Tinto grapes are riper, sweeter and easier to pluck from the stem.
We started in the dark under the milky way with no moon and are now in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, named after a hermit that was expeled from the monastary in the early 11c for being iliterate, which in English means St Dominic of the Road. This hermit build roads, bridges, hospitals and refuges for the pilgrams traveling thru. The town catheral started as a church in 1098, and improved 5 different times in the 12th, 14th, 15th, 17th and 19th c. Not to overdo the religious thing, there is one really unique thing about this catheral. It has a pair of chickens that are in resident at all times. One cock, one hen. They work 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off. There is a miracle story behind this, but I will not go into it now.
For those who are asking the mileage count to date is 214.3 km or 133 miles walked; 584.3 km or 363.1 miles to go.
Tomorrow is a shorter day. Thank heavens for JoLinda´s swollen ankles and sore feet.
Al reporting
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