Walking Day 29

Last night's meal was another pleasant experience with some old & new friends. We were surprised to find Dennis, an Irishman we had breakfast with on Walking Day 1 in St Jean, hobbling down the the stairs to greet us. His Camino is over, struck with tendonitis in his left ankle. He was cheerful enough but clearly disappointed vowing to return in late Dec to finish in this holy year.

Since it rained in the evening and the weather reports were for a clear day we decided to spend or 43rd anniversary walking, so we were a foot at 0800 after breakfast. JL's feet were less painful, but we choose to keep a slower pace. Today was an uppy for the first 13 km. At our first stop we found another fellow pilgrim Barbara (73 from Chicago) who we hadn't seen in 10 or so days. The walk was pleasant and soon JL was comfortable with her Tevas. Dairy cows were everywhere and JL couldn't stop taking pictures (and I thought she wanted off the farm). The farms are old but the equipment is new. Modern milking storage, new big tractors and houses that have been renovated. Clearly this area is wealthy. The soil has also changed. It is sandy/silty without stone, and appears rich.

We passed the 100 km marker and stopped at a bar/tienda at 95 k which was reported to have beers from a zillion countries. Here we again met Jed, a young man doing the Camino from Israel (who claims to be atheist) who repaid the euro we lent him at dinner. We have enjoyed his humor as he now calls me (a non-practicing Catholic) Rabbi.

There are now almost twice as many pilgrims on the Camino as Sarria is the last place you can join the Camino and receive the forgiveness of sins in Santiago. Dennis found this ironic as he had walked almost 700 km for nothing and those that would walk the last 100 km would receive full forgiveness.

Most of the new pilgrims are walking without backpacks or small daypacks. There is a huge business from here in that transports packs to the next overnight stop for about 4 euro.

We are now in a Pension (private room w/ bano for our 43rd annv.) in Portomarin, a village that was relocated higher on a hillside to allow the construction of a reservoir including the relocation stone by stone (each numbered) of the XII c church. We are 88 km from Santiago and plan a short day tomorrow with rain predicted at 85%.

Al reporting.......