Astorga to Rabinal : 21.4km five hours of a gentle steady climb, cold and wind in our faces most of the way but with lots of little villages to stop and grab a cup of coffee con leche or quick potty stop. Got a room over a bar that has wifi and a comfy warm place to hang out this afternoon, also has a washer and drier.....not available most albergues and we haven't been able to wash out clothes in a couple days, either in too late or to damp and cold to dry.
We hear the little 12th century church that was built by the Knights Templar when they were here to ensure safe passage of the pilgrims over this remote mountain terrain, has been taken over by an order of German monks and that now the evening vespers at 7 are done in a Gregorian chant.
Now the days get harder again. Tomorrow is the big climb 600 meters to the highest point on the Camino which is 4,940 ft. though the pass of Irago and over the mountain for a very long day. Have to remember one day and one mountain at a time and this day was great...beautiful hillsides of heather and scub oak.
156 miles to go .....but trying not to think of them.
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