Sur le Chemin de Arles,Via Tolosana

Sur le Chemin de Arles,Via Tolosana
pilgrim route from Toulouse to Puente la Reina

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Walking Day 4

L'Isle Arne to Auch -21km.   May 19

So our host Martine advised with the rain we should avoid the muddy path of GR653 through the woods and stick to the country roads which we heeded.  We did a little better at getting on the trail leaving the gite at 8:45am.  We stopped for cafe in Lussan with church bells ringing for 10-15 min. Then pressed on.  Squalls kept coming through requiring us to don the rain ponchos, wait for sun, remove, then repeat.  Almost like a Transpac evening in the trades....except it was a cold wind that came w the rain.   Thinking that we might luck out with the trail we rejoined it at Montegut to avoid possible increase in road traffic.  hmmm
Once committed no turning back.  It was slippery but w the walking sticks we managed not to fall.  Soon we arrived in outer Auch where the path has been rebuilt into a nice walkway. One sign caught our attention.   No way Jose!  
We walked on into Auch and spotted the Cathedral of Sainte-Marie 
 
We found our hotel, showered, and toured the cathedral.
That done it was time for a liquid dinner.  Just top it all off, re got soaked on the run back to the hotel having left the ponchos behind.  Ow well


 
 

 

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Walking day 3 Giscaro to l'Isle-Arne

A lazy morning at the gite, after a great cozy night....so left at 9:30 in perfect walking conditions.  many sections of the path are sunken tracks lined with trees between wheat or newly planted sunflowers. So many hills, they are constant ups and downs.  we got to Gimont around 11:30  but only stopped to get some Osso Ratey cheese from the Pyrenees , plus apples and bread for tomorrows lunch.  
    Back to the muddy ruddy tracks, anywhere sun can get poppies grow.  Some are even taller than the wheat...stretching for the sun.  Can't blame them it is cold in the shade. Yeah! 


 

    The word for today is " wind".   Seriously,  the wind kept picking up, Al guessed 25 to 30 from the NW and freezing.   I've have always loved trees but now even more for the protection they give from wind and rain. We arrived at Gite De Lamothe around 2:30 
Just in time to avoid a downpour.
   It is strange arriving at a Gite with no one there.  So you leave your boots outside, find a like bookcase or stall for your backpack and make yourself at home.  Made some hot tea as the rain increased and plugged in Al's iPad mini .   



 From the outside it looks farm house.
 
The Hostlier stopped in about 4:15 and lit the fire place which is very much appreciated. It is freezing...hope the sun comes back tomorrow.  I need my uggs.

Walking Day 2

Leguevin to Gisaro 

It seemed strange to awake alone in an alberque.  We dressed, ate a little bread & cheese and were out the door at 8 AM.  We found are way out of town and unto the trail that soon took us into the forest.  We back tracked a bit at the start of the forest for JL to change from Tevas to boots as the rains have made the trail very muddy in places.  The very red poppies are everywhere.

The chemin follows GR 653, a French walking trail designated with two stripes, white over red for straight ahead, a third white L strip under orientated to form an arrow for L or R ahead.  The chemin uses the traditional shell and a third hybrid uses a single yellow stripe.  These were all present in various degrees to give us a little more challenge to the day.  Farm land approached the forest and we walked alongside fields of winter wheat and fresh plantings we couldn't identify.  Here we saw the snow covered Pyrenees for the first time.


   We arrived in L'Isle-Jourdain at noon and mistakenly choose a lunch spot that took 2 hours.  We decided to press on to Gisaro some 15 km further.  The walk was easy but tiring.

A nice rest bench along the way placed by a supportive farmer gave some relief prior to finding the Gite La Grange, the oldest gite on the Arles route - built in 1652.  Again, the only pilgrims.  A nice lady (Danielle from Quebec) was house sitting for the owners.  She was a great host, serving the best duck and potatoes we have ever had.  The remainder of the evening was spent in delightful conversation.  The total walk today was too long at 19+ miles
 
 

Thursday, May 16, 2013

First walking Day

Lost in Toulouse .  Took both Jim brown and al to find our way home from dinner last night.   Lost often today, very frustrating... But made it to Leguevin as planned ... 2 options for getting out of town tomorrow and neither are clear.  Met a guy at a bar who is Italian who understood my Spainish so have a beginning path to follow.  Today was less than fun.  Rained a lot, nice guy helped with direction then we think he realized he'd given us bike path directions way longer than the Camino path so he drove to catch up with us and insisted on taking us to the next little town .  So then we walked many km through the forest to Leguevin arriving at the Massion St Jacques to find no one there so we figured out how to get in, read all the rules, showered and now out to have a beer and get dinner.  

Back to pilgrim hostel,  only ones there, haven't seen any other pilgrims...
 

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Great to be back in Spain

Lufthansa flight was how alrlines used to be.  Great service, comfortable and complimentary everything even in the back of the plane. Les Miserables made me cry , so sad but no better use of time. Flyaerobics helps also on long flights.
Flying into Frankfurt, notice the yellow fields, I was told they make oil from this crop. Canola oil? A short layover and off again to Barcelona in time to check In to our Hostal just off the Ramblas then walk to the Metro to Sagrada Familia in time to visit the towers and tour the Basilica.  Such a pleasure to finally get to see it after missing it the last time we were in Barcelona which was in 1979.  Love it or hate it.   I love it.  Love all things Gaudi..

Had a great Paella and fried Calamari dinner at 10:00 pm. So nice being back in Spain. 20 min walk to Barcelona Nort for the 9:30 bus with wi-fi to Toulouse .