Chocolates on my Pillow

Incense Urn Further in Swing

Incense Urn Starting Swing

Last Walking Day 34

I was up two times in the night to soak my feet in cold water. It is a very effective treatment for my toasted feet. So I was a little slow in getting packed up and down for breakfast and a little uncertain how this last day would go. At 8 o'clock we stepped out the front door of the Hotel and realized that it was raining and really windy. Stepped back inside and I put on shorts and we both slipped into our ponchos and off we went. It only took about 15 mins for my " Burnt toast feet" to feel almost great and I got to have my portable cold foot bath with me all day.

We only had about 9.5km to go so we were in very good cheer. Up one last big hill to Monte del Gozo or Mount Joy, where medieval pilgrims first spied the cathedral towers. Now that view is blocked but you can still see Santiago suburbs from there.

At 10:44 we spotted the Cathedral towers and Al says if we hurry we can make the 12:00 pilgrims mass. We arrived at 11:30 in great Pilgrim style, ponchos dripping wet and blowing in the wind. The realization that we really did it , we were really standing there in front of the Cathedral hugging each other in celebration of the long "Way" we completed together. Even though a bit overwhelmed we first had to find the Pilgrim office register , get our official Compostella , then find a place to lock up our backpacks and then get in line to enter the Cathedral. We just made it. Must have been 3,000 people in the Cathedral. Al would do a better job describing the Mass but even though it was long...standing in wet sandals, all in Spanish and only understanding a little bit of what the Priests were saying, it was still very moving. We looked around and saw several people we had met along the way. Just before the communion there is a greeting to those around you...peace be with you..not many dry eyes...hand shakes often replaced with hugs. The coolest part was the swinging of a giant incense burner. Originally this was used to fumigate the sweaty and possibly diseased pilgrims. It took six monks to swing it with a pulley system and ropes and the had it going so high it almost hit the ceiling. Absolutely amazing. Everyone was gasping and taking pictures, even the Priests were enjoying it. When they finished everyone applauded. A nice fun way to end an otherwise solemn service.

Too much to write. Stood in line in rain for an hour or more to tour the Cathedral. Then knew we better find a place to stay. By this time we were cold and getting wet inside our ponchos and hadn't had lunch yet. On the square behind the Cathedral is Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, which is the oldest hotel in the world in constant use for that purpose. It was built around 1486. Ferdinand and Isabella built it as a pilgrim hospital but now it is a 5 star Paradores where we are staying tonight enjoying the luxury. Nice to find a little box of chocolates on my pillow tonight. Thinking of taking a bus to Finisterre tomorrow.

The Camino de Santiago is officially completed. St. Jean to Santiago 798.6 Km or 496.2 miles in a total of 36 days which included 2 rest days.
"A purpose of pilgrimage is to allow time for old belief systems and outworn "truths" to fall away so that new and higher perspectives can arise." Quote by John Brierley who wrote the pilgrims guide that we used.

Walking Day 33

> What a pleasant surprise to wake to no rain! We were on the Camino at 0750 after breakfast and rescuing our poncho's from the Hostel's lockup. As we walked up and down rolling terrain on tree covered trails the sun started to break through warming the air and showing blue sky. There were a number of trees and tree limbs down along with windfall fruit. The figs were good but we could find no good apples.
>
> Since the Camino weather and TV continued to show rain, we decided to extend the walk to minimize our final walk into Santiago in the forecasted rain. The result was a 30 km walk leaving 9.5 km to go and bad news, as JL's feet are toast. ( Comment from JoLinda "Burnt Toast") Not sure if we will be able to leave the 3 star hotel we are currently in tomorrow morning or not.
>
> The dinner was the best "menu of the day" we have had. Dessert was ice cream with chocolate sauce in a dish! No little packaged cup.
>
> Al reporting.....

JL in the rain in Tevas in shorts and so-so poncho

Walking Day 32

We've been talking about being blessed with good weather so as you might expect, it didn't last. For days we have walked under threatening rain clouds. Last night it started "tipping" as our Welsh friends say. This morning it was still pouring and hasn't let up. We started walking later than usual not wanting to walk in the rain and in the dark...still not really light at 8 am. A lot of the walk was in the woods, great smelling Eucaliptus trees and some protection from the wind, up and down and up, up again. Now driving rain. By the way my Tevas and wool soaks today are perfect. They needed a wash job anyway.

We had decided to make this another short walking day and are we glad to be in. Al is already ordering vino tinto and spaghetti. You know two days ago early in the morning Al announced he was "done" with Camino and wants to be home, also related that he was having nightmares of having the bottoms of his feet caned and other various tortures. The next dayr he tells me there are imaginary stones in his shoes. I think we both will be glad to get to Santiago.

We are in Arzua which is the last big town before Santiago with around 37 Km to go. Too much for me to do in one day.

Walking Day 31

Today was another 20 km. The Camino marker says 51 km to go and at this point I am ready for it to say we are there. No breakfast this morning until we had logged 7 km. Surprising there was no rain although it was sure in the air. We are now in Melide, a modern town of about 7000 that has a 14 c church & a museo of the areas history. We found a nice hotel and are enjoying warmth & wee-fee. Again rain is predicted but we are hopeful it will fall during the night and leave a blue sky for tomorrow's walk.

Al reporting......

Blackberries for breakfast

New Albergue only 10 bunks, nice but no heat

New picnic tables for Catalina

Walking Day 30

Where on earth other than the Camino can you have 30 days with gracious, kind, helpful, positive people? We have not experienced one bad attitude or negative comment from anyone walking on the Camino or along the way. People in the country and the towns are always so helpful. If you are standing along the way people will point the direction you should go or walk with you till they are sure you are going the right way. No one passes you with out saying buen Camino or greets you in someway. It is pretty special.

Having said that I also want to say that things on the Camino have definitely changed a bit since O'Cebreiro and entering Galicia. Al mentioned that there are so many more pilgrims on the path and most with no packs but more than that they haven't received the proper pilgrim orientation. Half kidding but really all this difficult way you learn things like; "Pilgrims never complain, they Welcome" and that we are all in this path of life together so we better help each other. Another difference is that almost every Km there is a stone marker that counts off the distance to go to Santiago, it is really annoying and makes it really hard to stay focused on staying healthy, happy and appreciative of each day walking on the same path that people have walked for centuries. After all the Camino is like life appreciating every day, not about getting to the end, which is death.

Today we stopped early after only 20 Km so maybe my feet won't keep me awake tonight. We got to our little albergue about 1:30 and have been enjoying relaxing in the sun talking to pilgrims stopping for lunch and passing by onto the next town.

We ran into the family on bikes again today and talked to them. I had the ages wrong, the kids are 6, 3,ad 18 months. They also have either his sister or her sister with them so there are three bikes. They are on their way to South Africa to work for a couple years but are finding this so inspiring that they may peddle too Rome. ( not sure from where) when they are done. They rented the bikes in Leon but brought the tow stroller from Canada...no airline fee cause it rates as a stroller. We saw them again a little later and the were all pulled off to the side half way up a hill picking black berries as a snack before lunch.

It is a bit cold not walking so I better get in my bunk for a little nap before dinner. These stone buildings are really cold.

All is well on the Camino.